This blog began in late 2006 with the planning and preparation for a circumnavigation of the world in my 39-foot sail boat Pachuca. It then covered a successful 5-year circumnavigation that ended in April 2013. The blog now covers life with Pachuca back home in Australia.

Pachuca

Pachuca
Pachuca in Port Angeles, WA USA

Monday, September 12, 2011

Visit to Port Townsend for the Wooden Boat Festival

In the company of sailing legends Lin and Larry Pardey
I visited Port Townsend for the three days of the Wooden Boat Festival.

I arrived early Friday afternoon, purchased my three day ticket for the bargain price of $20 (for seniors), then attended talks by Nigel Calder on "Anchoring Without Anguish" and Leif Terdal on "Northwest Sea Disasters".  Shortly after 5 PM I drove to Jean's house and met Arnold, who had just arrived from Kingston.  Jean had offered to us the hospitality of her home during the festival which proved to be very helpful to us.
Barbecue at Jak and Corine's

Soon Arnold and  I were off to Jak and Corine's home for a barbecue that they were putting on for a group of their friends and neighbors.  We had a very pleasant evening with the genial group, several whom we had met on our earlier visit.  Unfortunately John and Priscilla were not able to make it from their home in San Diego because of a family issue, but I'm sure that we'll see them again sooner or later.  The night got chilly, which gave us the opportunity to huddle around the open fire that Jak had going inside of a large wheel rim.  This may be the 21st century but we have still not shed the atavistic urge to huddle and socialize around an open fire.  So much food had been laid on that Corine did her best to persuade the departing guests to take doggie bags with them. 

Watching visiting deer over morning coffee at Jean's
That night Arnold and I were both guests of Jean in her large and modern home.  It was unusual in that we each had a floor to ourselves.  Arnold slept above in the mezzanine, in a large bedroom with its own generous en suite.  Jean of course slept in the main level.  I slept in the "basement" level which was in fact built as a spacious self contained apartment with its own kitchen, bedroom, toilet, spare room, etc.  In the morning while we were having coffee in the living room we watched two deer - a doe and her offspring - mooching around the back yard having breakfast.

Then it was time for serious festival activity.  Arnold was more attracted to walking around and visiting boats for a few hours than attending presentations, so he went off on his own.  Jean and I headed off in her car for what we expected to be a long and interesting day.  The beauty of the schedule was that at any one time 6 or 7 different things were happening, so Jean and I would often attend different events.
Francis on duty flanked by admirers

For me the first presentation was "Standing Rigging", by Lisa Vizzini of Port Townsend Rigging.  I learned a lot from Lisa's excellent presentation, particularly about mechanical (as opposed to swaged) fittings.

I was walking with Jean after the presentation and Nancy Erley walked up and said "Hello, Robert".  What a great surprise.  Her partner Lynn was with her and it was terrific to see them again.  Nancy is a well respected local identity who has completed two circumnavigations and runs a sail training school.  She was on her way to deliver her talk on "Captaincy for Couples" which presented good principles of leadership and conflict management on small boats.  Jean and I both attended that one.

Immediately after that I attended "Rig Loads" by Brian Toss, a well known rigger in this part of the world.  I got very valuable insight into the relationship between angle of heel and loading on shrouds which without a doubt will help me to minimize the risk of rig failure during my upcoming long passage.  I also learned something that may be old hat to other sailors but was a revelation to me:  There is more load put on the rig by a full main and genoa in a moderate breeze than by a deeply reefed mainsail with storm jib in a storm.
Francis, Toad, and Jean

Immediately after that was Lin and Larry Pardey on "The Compelling Power of Adventure" in which they provided a broad outline of their approach to their life of adventure and enumerated principles for life decision making that they recommend.  I learned that they famously sailed without an engine not from some lofty principle of purity but because they had a choice of either installing an engine and working for another year or spending the year in Mexico.  Against all advice they sailed to Mexico, found that they could manage without an engine, and the rest is history.

By then I already felt that Lin and Larry were old friends.  I suppose that they were already old friends in the book sense, but after a 15 minute conversation with them earlier that day it was also in the personal sense because they are that kind of people: down-to-earth, open, friendly, and so easy to talk with.

During the entire festival they had a large table with all of their books on display and for sale.  Whenever they were not giving a presentation they were at the table, chatting with people and autographing books. I approached them with some books to be autographed and when I mentioned to Lin that my boat was in La Paz she asked if I knew Mac and Mary Shroyer.  I replied that I regard Mac and Mary as my patron saints of La Paz and I can't speak highly enough of them.  That launched a wonderful conversation of their early days in La Paz and the fun that they had with Mac and Mary when they also were just getting started.  I told them that their son Neil was now running the Marina de La Paz, which Mac and Mary had built.  They both asked me to pass their warm regards, and Larry gave me a firm instruction to give them both a hug on their behalf.  (I'm not sure how I'll handle that one.)  When I shook hands with Larry I told him that it isn't often that I get to meet a living legend and wished him and Lin all the best for the future.

My fifth presentation of the day was Carol Hasse's "Storm Sails" which gave me new insights into the selection, rigging, and management of storm sails.  Afterwards I told Jean that I felt like I was back in my university days, trotting from lecture to lecture.

Burl's memorial bench
On the way back to Jean's we visited the waterside bench that Jean and her sister Vi had put up in memory of Jean's husband Burl who had passed away one year and two days earlier.  It is a lovely location, on the waterfront just a few yards from the Boat Haven.  The plaque invites passers by to rest, sit, chat, and enjoy.

On Sunday Jean and I were back for another early (9.30 AM) session, on "Fiberglassing".  For the second day in a row Jean managed to snag one of only two disabled parking bays right against the main building.  Finding parking was a big deal in that small town that must somehow accommodate the 30,000 visitors to the boat festival.  Once again I learned some basic but very important principles.  I now know how to select the resin (low viscosity, no bloom), that there is no need to coat the wood with resin before laying down the mat, that there is no need to sand between layers, and that you can put down many layers in one session (50 is his record).  I also know better how to avoid bubbles and to avoid the problem of fraying edges (tape along the edges).

There was no other talk of particular interest to either of us so we decided to dedicate the day to walking the jetties and visiting boats.  We began by having coffee where we had entertaining conversations with a couple of visitors.  We then caught up with Francis and "Toad", whom we had already seen a couple of times on Saturday while he was on duty as a volunteer guide.  They invited us to their place for a visit at around 3 PM when most of the festival would have been wound down.  I visited the Pardeys again and had a short chat with Larry about their first to Fremantle, my home port, many years earlier.

Jean and I then spent a couple of hours looking at the boats then having a light lunch of fish tacos.  I went on board Elmore (built in 1890) and asked if Simeon Baldwin was around.  I had been keeping an eye out for Simeon, whom seems to be a regular volunteer at the Festival, with no success.  The volunteers on board knew Simeon quite well but said that he was not at the festival that day.  Hindsight is a great thing: I should have sent him an message about my planned visit weeks ago.  I'll be sure to catch him next time.  Back on the second floor of the main building I caught sight of an interesting looking slide on batteries, so Jean and I slipped into the presentation "Green Systems", which was actually about new developments in boating power technology.  I had thought that AGM and GEL batteries represented the state of the art, but the current best choice is TPPL (thin plate pure lead) batteries.  On the horizon is LFP (lithium iron phosphate) technology that exists, greatly outperforms everything else, but will not be practical until its phenomenal costs (and complexity of charging) come down.  With the advent of LFP technology he foresaw battery life of 40 years.

We arrived at Francis and Toad's place just before 3 PM and what a wonderful place they have.  It is a duplex where they have the top floor of the house with a generous veranda looking to Port Townsend Bay.  Toad has heavily patronized bird feeders hanging on a tree branch at one corner of the veranda.The four of us spent close to two hours on the veranda, enjoying the fresh air, splendid view, the yummy home made pizzas and dips over beer and wine, and plenty of laughter, which was no surprise because for some mysterious reason there is always fun when I find myself in the company of a New York Irishman.

We returned to Jean's place where I decided to have one more go at restoring her TV service,.  I had managed to remove all program recording schedules, which had been plaguing Jean's TV viewing since Burl's time, but could not manage to work my way up the menu back to the ordinary TV presentation.  I was at my wit's end and Jean said "Why don't you hit the 5 key and try to get channel 5?"  "Great idea" I replied, already feeling like a fool.  I hit the 5, channel 5 came on, and all was well.  Nothing like lateral thinking.

I drove back to Kingston after a memorable 3 days in Port Townsend.

Photos of the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival, 2011

Replica of Joshua Slocum's "Spray"
16 ft "pocket cruiser" out of San Francisco.  One was sailed to Hawaii.
Nancy Erley on "Captaincy for Couples"

Lin and Larry Pardey on "The Compelling Power of Adventure"
Most of these boats were open to visitors.



Demonstration by Brian Toss on rigging loads.  People at right represent wind load on mast, at left people represented righting forces at boat before they disappeared during rollover.

Lots of boating activity in Port Townsend Bay

Friday, September 9, 2011

Third Week

A week has passed since my last blog entry.  This is a reflection of a quiet time when life has settled down to pleasant days around the house with Arnold, Sandra, and Denver the Dog, as well as drives in the RX7 for local shopping and visits to Kingston and Port Townsend.  All of this has been in day after day of clear and sunny weather with temperatures reaching the neighborhood of 80F - call it La Paz Weather Lite.
Sneak shot of Arnold and Sandra enjoying the weather

Three days ago we got a visit from Larry Conlee who drove from his home in Olympia.  Brenda and I had met Larry at the Posada Luna y Sol hotel back in June 2010 when Pachuca was receiving her engine transplant, and I had seen him during his several return visits to the city.  I had last seen him in January, when he took me on that overnight tour of the mountains in the Loreto area.

Larry loves travel and adventure, and true to form he offered to pick me up here in Kingston and take me on a camping trip in the wilds of Idaho - really wild - a hard-to-get-to area with year round hot springs.  I explained that in normal times I would jump at his offer but because I was on a short visit I couldn't spare the time.  He understood and drove up with his dog for an afternoon visit to the Morales hacienda.  Sandra, Larry and I had lunch in Kingston on a deck overlooking the bay.  Afterwards Larry pushed on to headed north toward Port Angeles on a drive around the Olympic Peninsula, which he had never visited before.  There is a small chance that he'll visit La Paz before my departure, and we also spoke of meeting in Viet Nam in a couple of years.

Jean and Arnold at the Vespa
The next day Arnold and I drove to Port Townsend to visit Jean Davies and help her out with a couple of things.  Arnold didn't waste much time in starting work on the task of getting Jean's Vespa motorcycle running again.  It is a beautiful little machine, but unfortunately has sat in the garage largely unused during the 7 years since Burl gave it to Jean for her birthday.  It has only 175 miles on the odometer.  We were amazed in the changes to Vespa since our teenage years in the middle of the last century, e.g. 4-stroke engine, automatic transmission, hydraulic brakes.

While Arnold worked on the Vespa I helped Jean with her computer.  Later Arnold came up and had a look at some of the connections to the machine.  Soon we discovered that the PC had no sound.  Arnold found that the sound card was loose in the chassis and we were forced to remove the cover.  It was a good thing that Arnold was present because I would not have been game to do it myself.  Arnold found that the sound card had come loose from the motherboard because the wrong type of screw had been used to fasten it down.  We found an old Dell machine in Jean's basement and as luck would have it Arnold quickly found the correct screw on the Dell and soon the machine was up and running.  Before closing the machine up Arnold gave the fan a few blasts of compressed gas to clean it good as new.
Arnold fixing Jean's PC

This is the first day of the 3-day PT Wooden Boat Festival.  I hope drive in this afternoon and hear talks by the Pardeys, Nigel Calder, and someone named Leif Terdal who will speak on "Northwest Sea Disasters."  Arnold will then meet me at Jean's and we will proceed to Jak and Corine's home for a barbecue where we will also see John and Priscilla, who are visiting from San Diego.  It will be great to be together again one more time.

Friday, September 2, 2011

Visit to Sue's and Shopping in Seattle

On Tuesday I met Sue Hoover at the Port Townsend Co-op.  She helped me with the very important task of procuring seeds for the growing of sprouts during my long sail to Cape Town.  I walked out with hefty amounts of sprout seed mix (alfalfa, red clover, mung beans, radish), mung beans, and a smaller amount of broccoli. 
Sue probably with a gardening diva at her shoulder

We purchased salads then went to her house for a lunch of crab cake.  Sue is becoming an accomplished sailor with the many solo sails in Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca under her belt.  Sue has the right boat, the right attitude, the best cruising grounds in the world at her doorstep, and is having the time of her life.

She then took me on a tour of her gardens and I was amazed at the variety and quality of produce from her patches of land.  She must have the flora divas helping her.  I approach gardening like an engineer: good earthworks, ramparts, irrigation, etc, but shamefully poor yields.

On Wednesday I found my way to Fisheries Supply at 1900 Northlake Way, Seattle.  I had heard references to this store several times during my earlier visits to this area because of their reputation for a wide variety of boating merchandise and relatively low prices.  The trip was worth the effort. 

My main objective was two spinnaker sheets.  The selection of cordage in the store was mind boggling and I needed help, which was not hard to find in the well staffed shop.  I told the young man assisting me that although I was sure that he had heard it many times before I had to say that this was the best marine chandlery that I had ever been in. Yes, he had indeed heard it many times before but appreciated my saying it again.

I described my boat and the asymmetric spinnaker that I hope to fly and he suggested a rope that was strong yet light and had the advantage of floating, which would minimize the risk of a sheet finding its way to the keel.  He suggested either 5/16" or 3/8" diameter.  Given the light duty that I would expect from the conservatism with which I would fly the kite solo (i.e. light airs only), I chose the 5/16" diameter rope.  The invoice describes it as "Ultra Lite Yel Trcr (500)".  I purchased an 85-ft length of green and an 85-ft length of red at a total price of $168.68 ($0.99/ft).  The lines are amazingly light and compact and will not be an issue with my airline baggage back to La Paz.





Sunday, August 28, 2011

Review of Past Week

Elisa flew off on Tuesday evening for business in Las Vegas.  Hurricane Irene disrupted her subsequent travel plans to Europe but she managed to get a flight out of Philadelphia and telephoned us last night from Frankfurt.  We have all been encouraging her to keep a log of her travels because she'll never be able to remember all of the places she's visited.  She is the "travelingest" person that I've ever known.  I was shown where an additional set of pages was added to her passport to accommodate all of the stamping going on.

Port Townsend Boat Haven
I made my first visit to Port Townsend on Wednesday and it was good to see Mark, Zee, and Seth again at Shoreline Marine Diesel.  While Mark was busy inspecting an engine for an insurance assessment I had a good chat with Zee then walked over to Port Townsend Rigging and said hello to Lisa and Shannon.  Unfortunately, Dan was out but I'll catch up with him later.

Kingston Harbor at Low Tide

Back at Shoreline Mark had the Red Dot R-254 boat heater waiting for me.  He included the two fitting required for the engine connection and will discuss the installation with me later.  It's a great little unit that is easy to install (thanks to Mark's inclusion of the heater option when he set up my Volvo engine) and is rated at 16,000 BTU/Hr@150F while drawing only 3.3 amps.  (http://www.thermokingmichigan.com/showcaseproductdetail.htm?ID=-23254)  Back at the house Arnold checked out the heater's electrics using a 12V motorcycle battery and confirmed that the unit has a 2-speed fan.


Arnold expressed concern about the risk of carbon monoxide asphyxiation, given my plan to have the heater fan extract warm air from the engine compartment.  On Friday we ordered an MTI 60-542 Carbon Monoxide Detector from amazon.com.  It is a hard wired  unit designed for RV and marine use with an 85 db alarm and a memory for reporting the CO level that triggered the alarm.  It draws only 60 milliamps of current.    The cost was $62.93 plus $5.41 tax (and free shipping). (http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/lp-gas/carbon-monoxide-detector-rv.htm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=partsshopping&utm_campaign=partsfeed)
Open Market at Kingston

One of Many Interesting Stalls

Live Entertainment at Market

Elisa had taken me to WalMart where I purchased a Seagate 1TB external disc drive for $89 (plus tax).  It is such a compact unit that conveniently takes its power from the laptop's USB port that on a return solo trip to WalMart I purchased a second one.  I have named one of the drives "Backups".  Stephen helped me to back up an image of my little Acer computer's C drive on the Seagate drive.  When I return to La Paz I'll also back up images of the C drives of the two Toshiba laptops.  I expect to sail out of La Paz with hundreds of movies and lots of music stored on the other Seagate drive, appropriately named "Movies and Music".

At WalMart I also purchased several other items on my USA shopping list: two pairs of hiking shoes of reasonable quality, and two pairs of polarized sun glasses, and a USB hub. The big issue of the shoes is the half sizes available in the USA for my short feet with high insteps.  I was also very happy to find the same model of watch that I had been using since Hawaii, so I purchased two of them at $12.99 each.  (Sometimes it doesn't take much to make me happy.) 

I plan to visit Seattle next week to address my boating shopping list, which includes 2 x 80' spinnaker sheets, a fire blanket, and a couple of good knives.

Yesterday morning I accompanied Sandra to the open market at the picturesque Kingston waterfront and enjoyed the relaxed and jovial atmosphere under a blue and sunny sky.

Larry the Organizer at Left, Arnold at Right, Sandra in Background

Arnold and Sandra's Property at Left

In the afternoon I was privileged to attend the first "street" party in years of this community of 11 or 12 houses.  The venue was the public space at the corner of the Morales property which fronts onto the two dead end streets of the enclave. Arnold's neighbor Larry organized the event and also provided the barbecue meat if I'm not mistaken.  However, everyone in the neighborhood contributed food, drink, tables and chairs.  It was a lot of fun and I very much enjoyed meeting Arnold and Sandra's neighbors. 

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Sail on Orisha

On Saturday Arnold and I took the ferry to Edmonds then drove north to Utsalady Boat Ramp Park on Camano Island where we met Christoper Boscole for an afternoon's sail aboard his McGregor 65 "Orisha".  It turned out to be a great afternoon for sailing when we were generally doing over 6 knots in very calm waters. 
Christopher at winch, Arnold at helm

Arnold did most of the helming while Chris and I investigated the sources of problems with his Monitor wind steering that has never performed satisfactorily for him.  We got some good insights into the issues and Chris is now getting good support from Scanmar, the manufacturer, toward a resolution.

Nav Station and Cabin Interior

Monitor Setup
Arnold at his work bench with the soldering iron
Soldering and heat shrink task
I've included a couple of photos of Arnold's repair of Pachuca's spare flux gate compass.  His task was to repair the cable that had been severed by the electrical fire.  Each of the four wires was soldered and insulated in heat shrink insulation.  Then the entire 4-wire join was protected by heat shrink insulation.

Monday, August 22, 2011

Cruise on Lakes

Seattle skyline from one of the lakes

Our Cruise Boat

Arnold chatting with guest

Floating Houses

Sandra at top middle
On Saturday afternoon a group of about 40 of us went on a cruise aboard the MV Fremont Avenue from Lake Union through a canal into Lake Washington, then back.  We were able to see Seattle from a unique perspective, with great views of parks, bridges, all sorts of commercial and recreational vessels, and of course the floating homes that have evolved from shacks built on rafts put together from logs stolen from the timber mill to the multimillion dollar gems that they are today.  We didn't have time to visit Bill Gates' starter home on Lake Washington.  He's somehow managed to cram 1.5 acres of house into his 4.5 acre property on the lakside.

It was a brilliant day with many boaters enjoying the lakes with the unique Seattle skyline in the background.  On board our boat everyone had a great time with our own brand of recreational boating, which included plenty of food, drink, and laughter.  I understand that the group - Sandra and her work colleagues - plan to make it an annual event.






 Sandra and Friend

Inter Lake Canal


Seattle Skyline
Here are a few of the many photos that I took.

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