Pachuca in the work shed |
The remaining antifouling has been removed from the starboard side and as I had expected we found less osmosis on that side of the boat. Bruce attributed that to the fact that for some reason the ultra hard "Copper Coat" antifouling was much thicker (and harder to remove!) on the starboard side. With that difficult and toxic task completed Bruce was able to focus his attention on other matters.
The mast has been completely stripped for painting after a lot of effort spanning two days by Bruce and Steve the rigger. All of the lines have been removed and several of them will be replaced, no surprise given that they were on the boat when I purchased her in 2005. It was discovered that the mainsail outhaul line had a twist in it inside of the boom which explained why try as I might I had not been able to keep the foot of the sail properly stretched. Also removed were the mast steps, wind instruments, radar dome, standing rigging, hounds, crosstrees, etc. A small crack was discovered on one of the lower crosstrees that was a failure waiting to happen, and there was the inevitable corrosion which has been dealt with. The masthead "Windex" wind indicator fell apart and my reaction was surprise that it had lasted so long because life for that fragile instrument at the top of the mast for a decade through several storms and countless gales had been as difficult as it gets on a boat.
Stripped Mast |
Removing radar bolts |
What we found was a sorry mess. Corrosion had turned parts of the aluminium material to a white paste and the drains connecting that section of the bilge to the rest of the system were blocked up. Sooner or later the base would have failed leading to catastrophic consequences for the mast. After Bruce had cleaned up the piece we had a discussion about its condition and agreed that the entire piece should be replaced. The new piece will have smaller and better targeted openings for the bilge drains and be anodized rather than left bare had the original plate been. Greg the marine electronics man (who had been my go-to man since the Angie days in the mid 80's) knew Pachuca well and mentioned that the aluminium supporting plate had been retrofitted when problems had developed where the mast threatened to punch its way through the hull.
Mast stump removed, looking at aluminium base |
Underside of plate. Black cables are for lightning protection |
Sad condition |
Removing that plate provided good access to the forward keel bolt and having the boat resting on its keel provides the perfect opportunity to see if we can (or even want to because they can be over tightened) tighten the bolts and we will seek advice on this. (There is no movement or leak from the keel, but hairline cracks in the antifouling appears at the extreme ends of the join to the keel, considered normal and inconsequential, and reflect the fact that the end keel bolts must leave some distance to the ends of the join.)
Then Zelko came into the picture. Zelko is an experience boat builder from the days when Marco had his small shipyard. His expertise is in teak. Among his many achievements, he did all of the teak work on Greg Norman's gigantic (69.5 meters/223 ft) $70 million yacht built by Austal Shipbuilding a few miles to the south. Bruce and Zelko go back a long way, and Bruce brought him on board to discuss some requirements.
In order properly repaint the deck and to eliminate possibility of leak the boat's toe rails must be removed. The big problem of this task is gaining access to the hundreds of closely spaced bolts running along the inside edge of the hull. We have been immeasurably helped by my having stripped all of the obnoxious mold-growing material that had been glued to walls and ceiling from one end of the boat to the other. This gave us relatively good access to most of the screws.
Note main table at left. Entire bilge will be prepared and painted. |
Section after cleaning. Single lead keel bolt at end compartment. |
While we were at it, we discussed the Bruce's discovery that the deck was flexing under foot load on each side of the cabin, something that I had never noticed. With those areas exposed Zelko will be able to fit 2 or 3 small deck supporting beams along those spans.
We then went topside and discussed the replacement of the two plyboard pieces that support the life raft. My design and material (marine ply of course) was strong and snug fitting along the curve of the deck, but I had made the mistake of using nails of mild steel which had over time bled rust down the sides and onto the deck. Zelko will rebuild them of teak using my pieces as patterns. We then discussed the replacement of the bases of the rail stanchions, which is currently a mixture of original teak and modern polymer material that I cut and installed in Mexico.
Life raft supports. Lower part built by me to eliminate deck curve. |
Another thing that we will fix is the insane path of the port water tank filler hose that passes diagonally through the electrical compartment. We will move the filler forward to above the water tank where it belongs, and as the starboard side is set up.
I also took Pachuca's bow plate to Osborne Park on the other side of the city for a quotation on a new one of thicker plate than the current 1.3 mm. The job will be made much easier by the fact that the fabricator will have a perfect pattern to work from and will not have to visit the boat. ... Why the other side of the city? Bruce told me that the further away you get from Fremantle, the cheaper the stainless steel work gets.
And we also discussed removing the heavy aft batteries in order to gain access to the area below the cockpit. I require this access to replace the connection between the HF radio tuner in the lazarette and the ground shoe on the starboard side of the hull. The thin and broad copper ribbon has proven to be hopeless for strength and durability and I will consult Greg about using a heavy cable instead.
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