Progress On Several Fronts

By now we have explored just about every part of the boat and I believe that we have identified every major problem.  Barring any more surprises we are starting to work our way out of the project which has evolved from a treatment of osmosis to what could be accuratey described as a refit - a partial one I suppose, given that the boat's propulsion system, teak decking, instrumentation, and sails are in top condition.

Last week I decided to cancel the order for the new stainless steel bow plate for several reasons: (1) The existing on polishes up fairly well and its battle scars give it character (2) I wasn't too happy about the extra weight at the extreme end of the boat from the proposed thicker material (3) I preferred allocating the $1,000 to Zelko's work.

Teak lift raft bases, white life raft support on rear one

During the week I had obtained s a perspex mounting panel cut to millimeter tolerance for the small 6-switch electrical panel to be mounted at the lower left corner of the electrical compartment door.  I emailed the plan to Steve at  BCJ Plastics Products in Kewdale who produced the piece in only two days.  Zelko mounted the panel and the fitted the electrical 6-switch electrical panel which was designed to relieve the overload on the main panel and cover up holes left on the door from the instruments of the old SAAB engine. 

Perspex Plan

Panel in Place

That installation enabled me to begin work on bringing order to the electrical panel, which will include removal of redundant wiring and labeling every wire at both ends.  That is a job that will be made easier by the fact that all of the boat's batteries have been disconnected but will nevertheless require much time and patience.

Zelko also delivered a beautifully made pair of teak supports for the life raft.

For the first time I worked over the weekend which was quite useful because it enabled me to paint International "Everdure" and varnish on Zelko's work so that he would be able to resume work on the ceiling first thing on Monday.  He began that work by dropping the main panel which he had put up on Friday and gluing wooden blocks to the roof of the cabin which would enable firm fastening of the cabin light instead of simply putting the screws into the thin ceiling as in the past.

Bruce and I traced the tied-off shower drain pump hose through the boat to the exit at the stern which led to his realization that none of the above-water drain hoses had been fitted with shut off valves.  He could hardly believe it and I confessed that I had replaced all of the below-water valves in 2008 but had not dealt with the above-water ones.  The problem is that in rough weather the boat can begin to hobby horse even when at anchor, submerging those exit points.  Our plan is to remove and fill in the shower drain exit (I tried showering in the boat once and found that it introduces too much moisture into the boat.)  and to install shut off valves in the remaining four exits.

Stern above water line.  Small exit at left to be sealed, other 4 will have shut off valves fitted.

I had shown Bruce the insane setup where the 1.5 inch filler hose for the port water tank as well as the pressure vent (which fills up with water whenever I fill the tank) passed through the crowded electrical compartment.

Path of breather hose and filler hose (which as been removed)

The filler hose has been removed and the deck fitting is being moved forward to directly above the tank where it belongs.   This of course has involved filling in the old deck hole and cutting a new one.

Yesterday we dealt with the toe rails.  That type of toe rail is no longer available in Australia and must be ordered from the USA.  The modern rails have no where near the flexibility (e.g. fastening points) of the old ones.  Fortunately the toe rails are strong, although there is some corrosion.  We discussed the issue with an anodizing firm but decided to have the toe rails sand blasted then powder coated.  This provided me with a wide selection of colours and I decided lighter colour that I believe will better complement the colour planned for the deck.

We also visited Steve the rigger where I was shown the problems that had been discovered in the mast and boom.

I had not know that there were two blocks built into the boom to provided purchase for the mainsail foot outhaul.  One of the blocks had broken away sometime in the past and bringing on the outhaul had caused the two blocks to come together creating a tangled ball of rope inside of the boom.  This explains why ever since I've had the boat I have been unable to firm up the foot of the sail no matter how had I tried.  The six boom sheaves were intact but somewhat loose on their axles an will be replace.

Corroded external end where wire passes

Hole due to corrosion

Cracked Tang

Closer Look

The spreaders were in bad shape.  One of the stainless steel tangs had a crack in it but can be repaired with welding.  However, the four spreaders were extensively corroded.  As usual I made the decision to replace rather while I had the chance.  Fortunately Steve was able to source material with the same dimensions required for a tight fit into the mast, and the shop has a very experience fabricator of spars.

A spinnaker halyard will be replaced (it needed replacing when I purchased the boat) and I will replace all four reefing lines when the rig is back up. (The existing reefing lines are in good condition but are not colour coded for easier identification.)

This rigging work will cost serious money but the work must be done because at present it is a dismasting ready to happen.

Late yesterday we had a visit from the man who will replace the boat's lettering.  He will also put on a stick-on boot topping above the waterline and the broad blue line around the exterior of the coaming.